15pt list building and Mini-core

Hi all, James here again after a lengthy exam/life hiatus from the blog and warmachine in general I'm back.

As you may or may not know (you should if you are in the Auckland area this Nov. 22nd) Mini-core is a 15pt Mk2 event being run by Haydn that uses 5min timed turns. It's designed to be fast and furious 'caster kill/army decimation action.

Having played a few games now with 15pt lists, theory-machined it and not having had much to say on the log over the past few months I figured this would be a good time to discuss 15pt list builds for Protectorate but I suppose it could apply to any faction in its simplest form.

At this points level the 'caster is the key element, their power becomes even more pronounced as one particularly good spell or feat can spell doom for your opponent.

So choosing a 'caster is going to be probably easier than in larger games as you probably don't have the points to make some of the less desirable 'casters work - you very much have to have a stream lined system.

So for the most part it is very easy to rule out 'casters that require a lot of support to make work - for example the High Reclaimer might not perform as well as say Caine who operates well on his own.

'Jacks work well if they can fulfill multiple roles such as Guardians or Phoenixes who act as heavies and arc nodes at the same time. 'Jacks like Vanquishers who operates as anti-infantry and still threatens enemy 'jacks for a cheap point cost is also going to be a good choice.

You probably don't need to worry as much about focus efficiency as much as you might in larger games as you'll probably only want one or two 'jacks and shouldn't be focus starved.

Infantry should best be kept cheap and cheerful for screening purposes as a stray AOE could devastate a large portion of you list. 'Casters with spells like Chain Lightening and Ashes to Ashes will get good return on those spells if you rely on infantry to be the core of your list.

There seems to be two ways to go with general list building philosophy. One is that you build a very specialised list that will capitalise on one particular strength - for example Testament with Vengers that drives straight for the 'caster or focuses on getting as much armour on the table as possible in hopes your opponent can't deal with it. The other is building a general list that has more chance against all comers that can adapt but is less geared towards killing the 'caster or destroying the enemy army and can handle a mix of infantry or 'jacks and suffers against a lot of either.

I'm going to be going with something like this

eSeverius

^Reckoner

^Redeemer

Hierophant

4xChoir

Vassal

Wracks

This is an example of a general list - note that there is no infantry and no arc node. It plays eSeverius a bit furthur forward to capitalise on his feat which is devestating at this low points level (though possibly useless) and Rebuke with a 12" range to shut down enemy infantry.

The Reckoner and Redeemer provide solid ranged assassination threat with Awareness and one thing I have found particularly useful is the potential for eSeverius to act as a melee stop gap. If a heavy gets too close to your lines he can punish it with Creators Wrath and the game isn't lost if he loses his Reckoner early.

It's very focus efficient, as he can have 10 focus worth on any particular turn.

It will however struggle against particularly high ARM or particularly large infantry swarms and lists with poor feat targets.

The second list I will address fits more into the first philosophy of lists - much more assassination orientated but is more vulnerable to direct beat face match ups.

pKreoss

^Vanquisher

^Reckoner

Rhoven and Honour Guards

4xChoir

The obvious pop and drop with the potential to deal with stealth and cloud effects using Rhoven, who also packs a fair punch in melee if push comes to shove.

It can crack high ARM with a couple of melee heavies and weapon masters. The denial of Kreoss' knock down, Lamentation and Purification cannot be discounted either.

At the end of the day it can be very match up dependent on whether someone brings the rock to your scissors at such small points levels but I think this has been lessened in Mk2.

So that's my thoughts on 15pts, should be interesting to see how it plays out. Regardless it will be a good day and there will be a report no doubt with pictures even. Looks like it's going to be a great turn out!

Plastic Fantastic

--Magnets for Great justice—
Building the Retribution of Scyrah heavy Myrmidons

PP are now releasing plastic products, you should know this already, unless you’ve been sleeping under a rock these last half dozen months or so; this article focuses on the construction of the new (retribution) jacks and using magnets to give them modular options.

So, here we will look at the Retribution of Scyrah heavy Myrmidon (warjack) kit; and we’ll assemble this in three ‘common’ ways.

The Kit:

The Retribution of Scyrah Heavy Myrmidon box set is a plastic kitset that can be used to build any of the RoS Hydra, Manticore or Phoenix Heavy Myrmidons.


It’s one of those new age plastic kits:

• Normal plastic glues will not necessarily work on this kit
  -use the super glues you usually would for metal models
• If you get any bent pieces you can heat them up and bend them back in place, then cool them to reset.
  (use a hair dryer or some hot water for bending and some cold water to re-set).

This is different to what you find in GW kits; but similar to what is found in kits by newer gaming companies - like those producing Alkemy, etc.

PPs plastics also slot together quite well – in this case the whole leg+hips section sits together with no use of glue at all, and the main exhausts slot nicely into the main torso... you will still want to glue these together though.


For more information on PP plastics check your NQ24 (pg51), or steal someone else’s.

The kit contains all the pieces required to construct either a Hydra, Manitcore, or Phoenix Heavy Myrmidon.
These use mostly the same pieces in their construction aside from a few differences:

• The Phoenix uses different “exhaust vents”(?);
• The Phoenix uses a different Right hand;
• The Hydra uses a different pair of fore arms;
• The Manticore has blades attached to its’ forearms; and


• Each option uses a different head.

Naturally this encourages hope for an ability to swap out the different parts of the jacks (between games); however, the kit is designed around being used to assemble one model only – there are no doubles of anything in the kit.


I want to keep this focused on the construction of these models, and not a review of the plastic kits themselves; but I have to say I am rather disappointed with the molds. Perhaps I’m just out of the habit of dealing with Plastic, but while the flash and mold lines were smaller, there felt like there was more of it... especially with the many small pieces.

Also, while we’re talking about the kit it is worth noting:
There are a lot of ball and socket joints on this kit, but don’t forget it’s a (heavy) jack - while there is huge possibility, only a small range of poses actually look sensible.

Assembling the kit:

There are three distinct (common) ways or ideas in assembling the kit

• the single-jack option
• the “two for one”-jack (Hydra/Manticore)
• the omni-jack

Below I’ll assemble this jack once in each method.

Which ever way you choose to assemble you kit, make sure you think things through first, and have fun.

Magnets

In building this (in the second and third way), I’ll be using Magnets. I have some that are 2.3mm in diameter (3mm tall) and some in 3mm in diameter (1.5mm tall).
I will say here that I have used the 3mm magnets everywhere aside from in the hands, exhaust vents, and forearms (in omni-jack). Those are the only pieces I found to small to easily fit a 3mm magnet in (I could just do it in the hands, but felt it was too messy)

I cannot profess to be an expert on magnets – what I know is from vague memories of high school physics. But all you really need to know is that they stick when lined up north pole to south pole, and repel each other when aligned north to north and/or south to south. If you want to know more, then look them up on Wikipedia.


As they will only stick together in the correct orientation, I highly recommend marking the poles – just use a thin paint brush (and some paint) to mark the same side of all the magnets.
I don’t expect the paint to stay that well, but as long as it’s there long enough to stop me form making mistakes, I’m happy.

There’s nothing terribly difficult in using Magnets. In the simplest situation you can just drill an appropriate sized hole, check it’s the right depth and glue the magnet straight in. I’m not sure it’s necessary, but I like to scrape the gluing surfaces with my craft knife first.


If you are drilling onto a ball joint, you may find it easier to cut a flat surface first (for the drill to better grip into). If you are drilling into a socket you can just drill away. Just be careful about narrow pieces of the model.


Additionally, it is probably a good idea to repaint the magnets once they are glued in. Keeping with my markings from before: if the coloured end is sticking out, then I paint the magnet; otherwise I make a paint mark on the model near the magnet. You may find it worthwhile to have a “master plan” wrt the magnets. In my models I will be keeping the coloured end pointing down (as you move down through the neck, elbow, wrist), with the exception being the left arm where the direction will be inverted - so right limbs cannot be attached to the left side, etc.

Now in general, I don’t know where it’s best to get magnets from, I picked mine up from here. What I can say, is that in my experience they are quite expensive, so take care and don’t waste them.
Though, after buying them I was reminded that there’s a guy in Hamilton who has access to ‘cheap’ magnets... I don’t know how cheap they are, but fair bet I probably paid much more than I needed to.

Single option – The Phoenix

In this option I’ll quickly demonstrate assembly of the kit with no swap out options.
I’m picking the Phoenix as:

• it is the more difficult of the bunch WRT incorporating modular options;
• I think most people will assemble a Phoenix and a “two for one”; and
• I want one for my Rahn army.

Assembly is pretty straight forward and barely requires comment. There are a lot of ball and socket joints on this model, if your making a single jack from the kit, you might as well try make some use of them (I’m sure you can do better than I have).


And thus we have the finished jack.


For painting purposes I’ve currently left the should pads off (they make Vlad jealous) along with the forearms. In the above picture the jack is just held together with blu-tack - hooray for light (plastic) pieces!

Naturally, there are some left over pieces, make sure you keep them. You can use them in wreck markers, model bases, scenario objective markers, or in later kits.

Two for one - Hydra/Manticore

Hydra/Manticore? Why chose that option?
The only things differing between these two jacks are the heads and the forearms, thus we can alternate between the two if we can replace these options. This is nice and straight forward, and using magnets only requires magnet joins at the hands, elbows and neck. Trying to alternate between any other two of the jack options is a lot more tricky... and if you’re going to be doing that, then you might as well be building an omni-jack.

As in the single option, we can construct the main body – legs, torso (with neck magnet), upper arms (once we’ve put magnets in), shoulders, exhaust vents.


We then need to insert magnets appropriately into the other pieces/joins.

This is easily done in the same manner as you might usually pin a model

• Drill out holes for the magnets (make sure they are big enough.
• Ensure the holes line up (if you feel you need to)
• Insert and glue the magnets in place
  take care to put the magnet in facing the correct way.

But be very careful with smaller parts (like the wrists pictured below), you don’t want to drill to deep... you may prefer to drill a succession of gradually larger guide holes.


And thus we have a jack with swap out options.

Omni-jack – Hydra/Manticore/Phoenix

The Omni-jack is perhaps considered the most foolish and difficult of the three options.

This extra modularity requires the ability to:

• swap exhaust vents (not too difficult);
• exchange an extra head (simple);
• replace a sword for a hand (with decent magnets this should be simple); and
• Make the Manticores arm blades removable (this is considered the problem).

Anyways, easy stuff first


Now, there are two main things to consider in this construction.

1. The Exhaust Vents.
We need to be able to switch between the two types vents, on the most basic level this should be any problem, the pieces slot quite comfortably into the torso... however, we’re using magnets which will hold them in place much better, so what shall we do?

The thin recess nature makes straight inserting a magnet (as I’ve done with the ball and socket joins) difficult. So, instead I’ve cut away the top half of the inserting tab, and I’ve placed a magnet in the main piece where the tab was. Now I can fill in the top half of the recess and fit a magnet on the surface. WIN.



2. The Arm Blades.
If you don’t mind having a phoenix with arm blades, then this isn’t an issue at all... if, however, you are like me and balk at the idea of the phoenix not being quite right... well, get some steel rod (like you’d use for pinning).

Now, the issue of the arm blades...
The blades lie flat on the arm, and the contact point is quite narrow (2mm) so a magnet join seems like a foolish idea; but it should still be quite easy to do. Here we use the idea that magnets attract other metals (particularly steel IIRC). While I cannot fit a Magnet into the blade, I can fit some steel rod in there, and can easily fit a magnet in the forearm itself.
This should give quite a reasonable bond, but I can go slightly further and by making a small hole near the wrist, I can create a circuit between this forearm magnet and the wrist magnet (will need to be careful about putting magnets the correct way around) using the steel rod. This should increase the magnetic bond to the steel, and in having a hole the rod inserts into, help the join overall.


So, we just drill a couple of small holes (they're a bit of a blemish on the model, but better than a whole arm blade), and some bent steel rod, you can get a very solid bond across the two pieces.

And thus we have a jack with swap out options.

END

I hope this helps anyone who was having issues with the assembly of warjack plastic kits, and figuring out how to use magnets for modular options. As mine are still unpainted, I can't give you painted photos... but I'm sure you can find some on the PP forums.


...Now, I’ve got some Battle Mages to get to work on...

KT Event: MINI-CORE

====================================
MINI-CORE
====================================
--A KIWITHRALLS EVENT--
NOVEMBER 22ND 2009 AUCKLAND CITYGUARD

Mini-core is a Kiwithralls event, focusing on being a miniature version of the popular top level hardcore Privateer Press class of events. In this event, players compete against one another over a series of quick and ferocious games in an attempt to kill as many opponents as possible.

Details:
This event will be run using the MkII Warmachine rules and stat cards, currently downloadable from the Privateer Press website. As Hordes won’t have their field-test rules available until after the event, they are unfortunately excluded.

Each player will be allowed to play with one 15pt army of their choosing, there will be no restrictions on force selection aside from those specified by the main rules. That is, these games are not restricted to Mangled Metal and Retribution of Scyrah Tier lists are allowed.

Players will be pit against each other using a standard strength of schedule system and will play a series of four games. Event winners will be determined purely by the number of games they have won; and strength of schedule will be used in the event of a tie.

Strength of Schedule will be based on the total number of wins your opponents have had (combined), if this fails to break a tie, we will only look at your opponents you have won against, and if that fails to break a tie… well, we may have to roll a dice or something.

Each game will be played using the modified Assassins scenario Army Breaker.

Additionally, each game will be planned to have 5 minute turns, or 30minutes of play per person. This time limit will not be strictly enforced by the tournament organizer; however, games will not be allowed to play for longer than one hour each, and stalling for time will be severely punished.

Cost:
To play in this event will cost $10 - this price is inclusive of the normal club table fees, etc.

Prizes:
Prizes are still being finalised, but they will be based on rankings and hopefully of a swag nature (SR coins perhaps).

Scenario: Army Breaker
Special rules – this scenario has no special rules
Victory conditions –

• When only one player has a Warcaster remaining, that player immediately wins the game.
• Alternatively, if at the end of any player turn only one player has non-Warcaster models in play, the player with non-Warcaster models wins the game.

If at the end of six rounds (or one hour of play) there is no winner, then the player with the most points worth of models left on the table wins for strength of schedule purposes only. In all other respects a tie counts as a loss.

Event Requirements:

• Models for one 15pt Warmachine army;
• Relevant Stat Cards, Markers, Effect Tokens, Templates, Dice and Measuring Tapes;
• As MkII is still relatively new you would be advised to bring a copy of the rules too; and
• Two written army lists detailing your army of choice
  (one for the tournament organizer, one for you opponents to view prior to each game)

Event Timetable:

• 1:00pm. Event begins – people arrive, etc
• 1:30pm. First game begins
• 2:40pm Second game begins
• 3:40pm break begins
• 4:15pm Third game begins
• 5:25pm. Fourth game begins
• 6:30pm. Prize Giving – people leave, etc

Actual times may vary from those shown here, but games will not begin before 1:30pm.

CityGuard will be open from 1-7pm on this particular Sunday; a “bring and buy” table and a sausage sizzle will also be on site.

What to do with old Cards?

Here’s an idea.


I haven’t seen anyone else do this, so I’m claiming it as my idea! (copywrite)

For Warmachine, MkI is dead... the old cards are somewhat useless, and everything is now in PDFs. Some people play with huge sheets of printed of cards, other cut up the printed cards and put them in sleeves... and other have got in trouble for distributing custom cards.

Personally, I cannot be bothered going to the effort of (making or) printing custom colour cards, and find the PDFs horrible looking and hard to read.

Luckily I’ve got a ton of old MkI cards, which are useless to me now.


So, grab some cards, some twink/white out/whatever, and a pen.


You can then correct all the stats and ability changes on the card, which looks a little less pretty, but still a lot prettier than the standard PDFs... And everything is arranged in a simple, familiar and easily recognisable format.

You can even glue the info from the new stat cards (printed at 6 to an A4 page), on the back of the cards – for full reference, and so your opponent can be confident you haven’t written MAT 8 instead of MAT 6 ;)


Simple, effective and pretty...
...now you can buy the new stat cards (coming out in Jan?) at your leisure.

Honestly, I prefer the structure of these cards to the new ones I’ve seen.


(I know I've used simple cards with minimal changes in the above pictures, they're just the ones that were on my desk when I decided to take some pictures. I've done it with more detailed cards, just remember you only need keywords on the front - details can be glued to the back.)

KIWITHRALLS, what are the Kiwithralls about?

The Kiwithralls are a group of NZ gamers, nominally centered around the Cityguard gaming club in Auckland New Zealand.

However this site/blog does not exist to service this club, this site is about Warmachine and Hordes in New Zealand. Here we advertise NZ events, clubs/playgroups supporters and anything else worthwhile to the gaming scene.

The thralls themselves also make additional posts about their armies and fully pictured battle reports, with a hope to help inspire the national scene.

We have a contents page of sorts set up here

The thralls:

• Chris – the original ‘K/thrall’, a painting buff and absolute PP fan.
  Expect some awesome paint jobs (and a different army each month) from this one.
  Forum name – Dizzy
• Haydn – theme buff, cautious PP fan and general community buff.
  Expect theme nonsense here (FTW).
  Forum name(s) – thecsharian and hausdorff space.
• James – a game buff, PP fan and medium level powergamer.
  Expect winning lists and lots of strong ‘top tier/bottom tier’ opinions and views.
  Forum name – dicegod

In addition to the thralls, we try to maintain a network of national contacts, who keep us informed of upcoming events and their results.

North Island Thrall contacts:

• Hamilton – JJ
  Forum name – DonJean
• Wellington – Sean
  Forum name - Ana Su

South Island Thrall contacts:

• Timaru - Owen
  Forum name - Izza

Lets us know:

• If you think you’re in a position to be a contact.
• If you have an event you want us to advertise.
• If I’ve made a mistake with any of the details here - I’ll fix them.

KIWITHRALLS, show your support

Live in NZ? Play Warmachine or Hordes? Know of the Kiwithralls?

Yes?

Well, in that case, do you have a Kiwithrall banner in your forum signature?...

...you better.

If these aren’t your sort of thing, feel free to steal any of the K/thrall pictures/logos you find sitting around the blog.
- Though you should probably host the images yourself.

And ask your FLGS to put up one of these up near their Warmachine stock.

Want to see something else on a banner? Then let us know.

KIWITHRALLS, the second coming

Well, slowly things are coming together...

...and seeing as nobody else has posted recently, I guess I should.

Kiwithralls MkII is coming; MkII, does that sound familiar?

We’ve pretty much finished fiddling around with the blog ‘picture-wise’, along with some background issues; now we’re just tidying up some of the extra blog structure, etc.

Now, with the finalization of all these changes, K/thralls will be pushing to change its position on the ‘local’ gaming scene. We want to move away from being a site revolving around a single gaming group, and redirect ourselves towards what we had (collectively) always planned this site to be.

We will be specifically moving toward being a site about events, clubs and inspiration for gaming around the New Zealand warmachine and hordes gaming scene.

So, we will be setting up a group of K/thrall correspondents, at least one for each area, who we will use as a source for upcoming events, and give us after reports to post. If you have anything you would like to see posted about or advertised on this site; or if you would like to be such a contact, let us know.

Additionally we plan to be advertised in every relevant gaming store throughout the country...so if you see a store without a little advert of ours, let us know.

Just to make this clear, we aren’t doing this to lord over the NZ scene, but to offer a place linking us all together – a portal to Warmachine and Hordes in NZ.

And, alongside the release of MkII Warmachine, Hordes and Kiwithralls, we are hoping to run a national escalation league. If you think your club or gaming group would be interested in joining in, let us know.

Join us in the kiwification of the iron kingdoms, support the Kiwithralls today.
(please host this yourself and use as signature image link to this site.)
(EDIT: You may want to resize it first)